Discover the sites of the sultans by day, people-watch from funky cafes at sunset and belly-dance through bars by night with this detailed and dynamic guide as your companion.

- 11 full-colour maps, plus plans of major sites

- how to carouse at a meyhane, puff a nargileh and find the best hamam

- grand to grungy - where to eat and stay for all budgets and tastes

- essential advice on buying a carpet, hunting for bargains and splashing out big-time

- trips beyond Istanbul to Gallipoli, Troy and historic Edirne

- 9 walks expertly designed to unlock all the city's secrets